Murphy.Mail

Hi guys,
Merry Xmas and happy holidays to all. 

And secondly for a very special treat, it was Vogue’s 50th Anniversary issue so I’ve included a shoot from that where I’ve done some short hair styling.
I looked at snippets from the movie on you tube and noticed that lots of wigletts had been used so I used lots of extensions and placed them mainly at the base of the nape and up the occipital bone. I wanted to pack them in at the base so that the hair looked really heavy at the base line. In my experience with using extensions, they can actually weigh the hair down, so I try and avoid putting them in the top of the head as much as possible.
To prep the hair and the extensions I used a blend of MOTION.LOTION and ANTI.GRAVITY because I was after a fluffy texture but I wanted a bit more hold from the ANTI.GRAVITY. I roughdried this in till the hair was bone dry.  

 

 

 

 

 

Then I back brushed the hair all over the head, this helps to blend in the extensions with the natural hair. I brushed out about 60% of the teasing but left the tease in the roots and hardly any teasing at the ends of the hair. I did this because I wanted height in the hair.
 
 
 
 

 

 
I used a very small curling iron on the ends up to the mid-lengths and quickly threw the curled hair into a medium size curler. I did this section-by-section beginning at the nape. I did a basic brick wind and stacked it so that the roots of the underneath were fully curled but by the time I got to the top only the ends and mid-lengths were curled. The idea behind this was to maximum volume without too much curl because I wanted the look to have a lived-in feel.
 
 
 
 

 

Once I took the rollers out I raked it through with a wide tooth comb and a slight brush with my boar bristle brush on the ends to ensure that I got fat ends instead of skinny ones. The boar bristle brush was the key as I could maintain the hair and make it shiny by just brushing the outer surface of the hair. 
VOGUE 50TH ANNIVERSARY ISSUE – SHORT AND SWEET 

This was a big departure for me as it was on short hair. Short hair and pretty dresses feels really modern now! The model Holly was discovered at a skate park and she rocked into the shoot on a skate board looking like a new age mod.
The influence here for me was Lady Dianna. I used HEATED.DEFENCE as a setting lotion to prep the hair and then set it on a really tiny curling iron. The set was a C-section beginning at the front of the head rolling the hair to one side.

 

 

 

 

 

I cheated a bit by rolling the top and back of the head forward so there was a clash of hair at the front, this gave me maximum volume for the quiff.
I back brushed the hair first to get control of the hair and left the back brushing in for about 10 mins. I brushed the teasing out fully except for the quiff. I left the teasing in at the quiff and just brushed the outer surface of the quiff. To finish I then used FULL-ON.PROTECTION to keep the hair up all day long.
The shoot was all about a new silhouette, short pretty dresses and high waist bows on everything and lots of excess. Earrings were big and there was no shortage of accessories. The shoot would not have worked if Holly’s hair were long so it was really refreshing to do some short hair for a change. Holly really makes short hair look sexy again.
 

 

 

 

 

Holly’s hair was cut short into the nape and the sides blended into the back. The back was graduated and the front of the hair was pulled back to meet the graduation to give maximum length at the front. When cutting the top you would want to slightly round off the corners so it does not turn into a bob or look like a flock of seagulls. This shape was about softness and femininity and there were no graduation lines which gave Holly lots of versatility in a short cut.

 
 
 
 
 

 

  

That’s all for now….. Kevin